6th term, week 9 ⚓️✌🏻

28th of March till 2nd of April 2022

There we are again for my last week onboard. It has been confirmed: after Rauma, we will sail to Hamina, also in Finland and we will load timber for Bremerhaven. I will not be part of the timber crew this time as I will disembark just after. Do not tell anybody, but I am quite relieved about it! These past days have been quite tiring preparing everything for the new crew member relieving me and I am a bit tired and I know the deck lashing is exhausting. I do know it is part of the job, but, I will only have to make sure that it is already on deck and then I am not even sure I will still be on board when they start loading! we will see, but it is also the way it is. If I had to stay longer of course it would have not been a problem, and I would have happily done it.

The thing is that sailing from Rauma to Bremerhaven is a short trip. And it is always the same thing: so much work for such a short trip is never so nice! 

On the other hand, I have to point out that this term was the first term in which for two months I did not have one bulk cargo! We only had packed cargo! It is the first time it has ever happened to me! this is crazy! usually, we always have so bulk cargo; or let’s say half-half.

beautiful view from my porthole
beautiful view from my porthole with a rough Baltic Sea

We are now still sailing to Finland. As usual, we passed through the Kiel channel; and as usual, it was during the night; but we are used to that now, right? 😉

During this voyage I tried to take time to enjoy the sailing a bit: as I had the whole month of march the challenge of going on deck daily; I tried to do that with mindfulness and breathing in and out the fresh air on the foredeck and get my hair in the wind. I enjoy that which is a good thing, but it does remind me of my sailing days … It is crazy that after so many years of what becomes my normality, I miss simple things that were granted on tall ships.

chief officer Sophie still went for a stroll on the hatches to get some fresh air and a big smile!
chief officer Sophie still went for a stroll on the hatches to get some fresh air and a big smile!

I also miss the winters in the Caribbean: being outside, wearing shorts and no socks all year round. But I accept the cold and enjoy it as well; as long as the days are not all rainy and grey all the time. In the baltic, it is crazy: I can still enjoy beautiful sunsets onboard which is nice and then the next day, the weather is the opposite when I wake up for my watch: grey, humid and overcast. Yes. where are my white sandy beaches in south America??

Not so nice weather just before arriving in Finland
Not so nice weather just before arriving in Finland

Well, the hot beaches are not here. But it is fine, after a few years, I got used to it now…

Do you want to know the worst? It was not even rain or drizzle that was dropping out from the sky later that day but snow! yes! End of March, snow! I thought I could store away my winter overall and warm working clothes and start packing a bit, but that did not happen as I thought it would… snow! Is that very surprising for Finland? I do not know… Probably not if you consider that there was still a bit of ice in the harbour upon arrival. And that we also had spray on deck during our sailing …. and had to hammer a bit the coaming to make sure it was all clear in the morning to open hatches to discharge! That was a long time since we had ice on deck right? Always enjoyed some hammering as a good workout to do late at night or in the early morning! Hopefully, when sailing to hamina next, we will not have to do that anymore. hammering and shovelling ice plus the deck timber lashing…. yep. you got the idea. this job can be exhausting at times! but most of the time it is quite okay you know! Otherwise, I would not be doing it, right?

Ruyter alongside with ice on the bow!
Ruyter alongside with ice on the bow!

Sometimes captain H. has to remind me that it is not a factory here and that we are normal people working and living together. But that can only happen when you put the ship first on the list right?

checking the magnetic compass up on the monkey deck
checking the magnetic compass up on the monkey deck

The following days were actually nice blue-sky weather again! I was making the most things ready for my reliever so taking the time to do all sorts of safety jobs onboard, even if a little anticipated according to the maintenance schedule. One of the jobs I like the most but tend to postpone is checking the magnetic compass on the monkey deck! I miss steering on the compass as you do on tall ships! standing outside on the wheel and having a beautiful compass in which the sails are reflected on the glass! Beautiful!

Enjoying a blue sky and calm sea sailing! Just how we like it!
Enjoying a blue sky and calm sea sailing! Just how we like it!

here, no sails and no steering outside. Ok; well fair enough if it is icy icy weather and snowing right?

We arrived in Hamina and from that moment it all went crazy fast. My reliever arrived in the morning and all my stuff was ready: my bag was made, the cabin cleaned, and the handover was written. I was just waiting for the grand tour of the vessel and showing/ explaining the main safety parts and the areas of work. When your reliever is fixed and knows the vessel, it is not necessary to go over all that again, but when it is not the case, it is a lot of information to share. but we managed!

In the late evening, I could get a taxi to the hotel where I had a short night’s sleep before my flight the next morning.

The day before we had shifted and started loading timber, they would continue today and probably have some overtime to finish up and head towards Germany. I was just hoping that all my explanations were enough and curious if we would manage to have all the timber we hoped for in the hold. the more in the hold, the more on deck…..

But it was out of my hands anyways and I had to start thinking about home and what I would do back home!

View from my window in the plane, on a snowy France
View from my window in the plane, on a snowy France

Luckily I did not have such a bit temperature change as I landed and there was still a coat of snow everywhere.

Have a nice time off and see you for my next term in 2 months!

XXXX

Sophietje

6th term, week 4 ⚓️✌🏻

21st till 27th of February 2022

4 weeks onboard!! Already! It goes so fast! I have the feeling I came back on board not so long ago…. And there it is already halfway through my term!

As a reminder, we are sailing to Sweden with wood pulp in our hold. Not a full cargo; but very easy cargo. It was funny during the loading I thought to myself that the cargo seems in really bad shape. But you know the thing is that it has already been handled quite a few times as this wood pulp comes from South America somewhere. Can you imagine that we bring wood pulp back and forth between some countries? It is quite strange when you think of it to buy something from the other side of Europe or of the world will there is plenty next door!

Motor vessel Ruyter sailing on the North Sea in strong winds
Motor vessel Ruyter sailing on the North Sea in strong winds

Anyways. We are out of the Kiel Channel now. And as it happens most of the time- or at least it seems to me…- I had the longest watch in the channel…. Ok not fair for the others. Of course, Captain H. always stays up for entering the locks and mooring operations. So he is also early and late but usually managed to have 7-8 hours of sleep in between. This time, I woke up for my watch and we were still outside Brunsbüttel waiting for the pilot and a free space in the locks. There was so much wind that everything was congested.

A couple of hours later the pilot even told me that they had stopped entries in the locks because of too high waters…. We were facing some gusts over 40 knots on the channel. We had to wait q few times on the channel for other categories of vessels crossing us. Once even for 1hour! Usually, it is 20-30 minutes…. It was not the easiest on the channel but luckily the wind was pushing us on the dolphins in the waiting areas.

Once out of the Kiel Channel, there was still some wind but no more waves so it was actually quite a nice sailing up to Sweden!

Finally the weather became better and the sun was out. View of the ship from the foredeck towards the accommodation
Finally the weather became better and the sun was out. View of the ship from the foredeck towards the accommodation

The further northeast we were sailing, the colder the water was and I could really feel the difference in my morning shower! As you know I only take a cold shower and well it was almost freezing cold just before arriving in Norrsundet! I even challenged myself to stay for 3 minutes underneath and there was no problem at all. I loved it it was very … refreshing! From Kiel to Norrsundet it was still 3 days sailing so it gets more and more North. And there would still be some ice closer to the coast further on the Swedish coast.

I had never been to Norrsundet. It was a very small harbour on the east coast of Sweden (I checked it out even! 1003 inhabitants!), just at the entrance of the Bothnia Bay North of Gävle. There was not so much Ice before arriving, but in the entrance channel and the harbour, a little. Just enough that the ship had to break the ice to access the quay. The small ice breaker tugs should have passed to break the channel and crush the ice before our arrival, but they hadn’t even though it was requested!

Sunset colours at sea
Sunset colours at sea

The linesman was also the foreman of the harbour and she was very upset; captain H. Too! It took one hour to finally berth.

The next morning we were ready to discharge the wood pulp. I woke up quite early to be ready to check the weather and open all hatches up. But once on the bridge, although it was dry and clear when I checked the weather forecast, it showed rain just around the time the discharge should begin. So I kept everything closed except mine hatch – just to say I was there and ready- and made myself a cup of coffee. 

It was very quiet all around the ship and in the harbour. It was a very small harbour with only two quays. One where we were and another one, longer where you could see that various cargoes could be discharged.

Discharging the wood pulp in icy Sweden
Discharging the wood pulp in icy Sweden

Finally, shortly before 7 am, the stevedores came to the ship. The crane was not even there yet. I went to say hello and explained why the hatches were still closed. And we waited a bit then suddenly it was pouring rain for 20 minutes. Like it came out of nowhere. And there I looked at the stevedores and we nodded: this was what we were expecting and it came. After that, I opened all hatches and we could finally discharge the entire rest of the day. Woodpulp is a weather-sensitive cargo and it should not get wet at all. As we did not have a full cargo; the discharge rate was 200t per hour so we could expect to finish within the day which was great news. Our next harbour was Hamina in Finland and it was a little less than 2 days of sailing. The next cargo was timber so the hold only needed to be swept well but not washed. So that could easily be done underway.

The arrival in Hamina was easy in the morning. It was nice to sail in ice for a couple of hours again. It is like a real change of scenery. And even if it was not as cold as last year at the same time when it was -14 degrees Celsius outside and now only 0 degrees…. Well, the ice was still there and everywhere in the harbour and the icebreaker and tugs still needed to break the water for us.

  • Back alongside in Hamina Port, The vessel is moored and surrounded by ice.
  • The ice is becoming very compact around the ship even on the stern

We arrived on Saturday morning which gave us a lot of time to take all the timber lashings out of the lashing store. Trust me it is a lot of slings that we carry down there! They are all organised in bundles of 25 so that it is easier to handle around when on deck. But we have more than 2500! If not 3000…! Then it is also all the chains, slings for the deck lashing and tarpaulins to take out.

Suddenly the lashing store seemed very empty! It was good because I could do some sorting there and some throwing away.

A ship is a little like a house. You tend to keep everything « just in case »… and even if it is old, broken or… well you know. This was going to be a perfect opportunity for me to check what we had onboard and sort a bit…. And mostly throw what was not needed anymore.

The ship is ready for loading early morning the next day
The ship is ready for loading early morning the next day

We were also welcoming a second officer onboard that weekend. Normally we do not have a second officer and we had to free our spare cabin that was used for various spares onboard and make it ready for him. I would have to do another full familiarisation for him on deck as I did for the engineer that joined us a few weeks ago. That is how it goes I guess….

Luckily they would only start loading on the following Tuesday so we had a fun Sunday in the harbour to…; sleep in, and swim in the Ice cold water! Yeahhhhh!!! Of course, you would not think for one second that captain H. And I would let this opportunity pass by right? This time my challenge was to stay for more than 3 minutes at least in the freezing ice water. And I was aiming for 5 minutes. And you know what? It felt way easier than last time. My core was warmer. And I felt more relaxed. Except for my extremities ( toes and fingers) while I was going back to the vessel…. It was really exciting!

Ice swimming in Hamina with Captain H.
Ice swimming in Hamina with Captain H.

In the afternoon we went for a walk on the ice to the city of Hamina. It is a nice 1,5-hour walk on the ice directly to the city. We went for a beer (I took a cider) and we had lots of fun.

This sounds like a good day to go for a walk: chief officer Sophie with in back ground motor vessel Ruyter
This sounds like a good day to go for a walk: chief officer Sophie with in back ground motor vessel Ruyter

I enjoy Sundays in the harbour like that whether is no cargo operation. It is really one of the nice things to visit around and walk longer than the length of the ship. Besides, I do enjoy the ice and Finland. It makes it special.

Selfie on the ice with vessels frozen in ice alongside
Selfie on the ice with vessels frozen in ice alongside

And I do not know when we will be there next so…. One day at a time and I try to enjoy it as much as I can.

I hope your Sunday was also nice.

See you next week with the sorting of the lashing store and the loading of timber!

Xxx

Sopietje

3d Term, Week 9 🤩⚓️

15th of March till I fly home on the 22nd!

There we were Monday morning still in Szczecin, Poland, finishing the discharge of the steel coils. There was not much left but enough to take up half a day and wait for the pilot to board so that we could proceed to Riga. This gave us time to prepare the hod, sweep it well, and make sure there were no remaining from the previous cargo in it: bits and pieces of plastic, lashing steel, etc. It goes fast and if you do not pay attention the guys working in our hold would also leave their crap behind that we would have to pick up and clean up for them: wraps of snacks, sweets, papers, empty cans, and bottles of water…. It is often like that. But I am never so happy with it and I often cannot keep my mouth shut for this type of things and I make sure that they pick up all their trash before they finish. Sometimes it is a bit of a fight. But I am right: before the cargo, the hold is clean and ready and after the cargo, the hold should be as clean as possible. Maybe because I am a woman they try to have me there, but I know my voice can sound louder from time to time, and trust me; I do know how to use the sound system when necessary!

Moored in Szczecin, Poland. Grey and rainy.
It is important to make sure everything come out of the hold at the end…
A nice and clean hold, ready for the next cargo

We were finally underway to Riga in Ballast. It was a 2-day sail and we would load Sun Flower meal pellets. It looks very much like sugar beet pulp pellets, but it is not the same ;-). We would bring this cargo to Gent in Belgium, which meant a nice few days sailing. Even if we had to pass via the Kiel Channel once again; if we were lucky enough it would not bother us too much in our watch schedules and resting hours. Fingers crossed!

I think this was my first time with this type of cargo…. Let me check. Yes, indeed it was my first time! Now you must be thinking how I checked so fast into my memories for that right? Well, I have a secret. I do not have any memory for such things: cargos, places I have been to, distances, events… No brains at all so I write it down! I have a note on my phone and I write down on each of the trips the distances and cargos we have been transporting…. 😉 especially when onboard Ruyter we tend to go several times to the same harbors and also a few times in the same term! And a few times in the same harbors but not with the same cargo either! Yep. As you can see I can easily get myself confused after a while, so I write it down. To be as precise as I can.

Ruyter alongside in Riga

The loading in Riga went quite fast. It was a touch-and-go harbour which is nice because I could easily prepare my handover and take care of the last-minute things. There are always last-minute things to arrange when you come closer to a Dutch or Belgium harbour: deliveries, technical orders…. This time it was our gangway. We were going to receive a new gangway in Gent with a new platform! How cool right? We were all so happy about it because our platforms always got stuck with the gangway. But the reason we would get a new one was not so nice of course… it broke. Well to be more precise, it got literally destroyed by the crane driver in Szczecin…. He did not look where he was driving and ran over it like if it were butter. But it was not as if we had quickly moved our gangway just on his path by surprise right…. I mean, you get it. Shit happens and no one got hurt.

Started loading bulk cargo in Riga!
Very nice sunset in Riga

On our way back to Gent, we of course passed via the Kiel Channel and I enjoyed being once again in the locks. It felt like these locks were becoming our familiar second place to be with the ship. I do not mind they do not take long, and I usually try to make fun on the foredeck taking selfies or showing my life on Instagram or just chit-chatting with the AB on deck with me at that time. There are a lot of things to talk about: the way the germans through their heaving line, the way the gangway is set, if we need to take freshwater or not…. Always something to talk about indeed.

How can you not love sunsets at sea? Never bored of it…

I felt like this time the channel was quite busy with more vessels than usual. But I must admit that we were this time in a sort of convey so there were always vessels ahead of us and behind! And perhaps the last times I didn’t see the other vessels because of the darkness of the night… just kidding 🙂 even when it is dark we still see the other ships 🙂

Entering the locks in Holtenau
A busy Kiel channel!
Beautiful lights…

Does it happen to you too that when you know you are going home; I mean obviously I always knew it would be the case; but I mean the moment you have a fixed date, then suddenly everything becomes somehow « lighter » or more « cheerful ». You enjoy way more small things that you do onboard: mooring, cargo, watches…. Like a new you. The same happens when you just join the ship. You are fresh from leave so full of energy if you did not have a bad long travel day. At the end of your term, you are re-energized because you know you will get enough rest once home again so you are not trying to save on some rest or sleep.

Happy officer on the forecheck during mooring operations!

Anyways. Kiel Channel and arrival in Gent went quite smoothly. If you do not count the long waiting and drifting at Steenbank; then the locks in Terneuzen… The pilots always seem to postpone the boarding times and the locks always seem to be congested. Every single time. I can understand it is a busy area and if you have bad weather or infrastructure work in the locks, everything is slowed down. Do you have the same?

And then there it was suddenly the end of 9 weeks onboard. And my 3d term turns a page for new shore adventures… till I will join again in 8 weeks.

And say bye to the ship for the next 8 weeks!

I hope you still enjoy reading all my adventures and I am looking forward to my next term! But for now, rest is well deserved! Thank you all my dear friends and see you soon!

Xxx Sophie