2nd Term ~ Week 6. 🚢 ⚓️ ⭐️

Week 6 was an interesting one! Last week we were sailing out of Kolding 🇩🇰 to Kaliningrad 🇷🇺.

The narrow channel leading to Kaliningrad

I have been only once in Russia. Last year with this vessel. We had 10 days in the dry dock then loading the soja bean meal in the same place as where we are heading now ( Svetlyy). I was a bit nervous about all the documents and paperwork the Russians ask us to prepare. But apparently, as they have had a lot of trouble with shipping companies boycotting their harbour because of that, they have smoothened up procedures a little. They still need a lot of declarations from the vessel and still do face-checks upon arrival… 👮 and ask you very seriously: “Sophie?” Looking at the picture on your seaman’s book with a doubting eye…. “Yes…. That is me…?!”. Probably my picture doesn’t look like me: Pretty Sophie with combed hair and a little make-up vs Sleepy Sophie just after a long night watch and called out of bed by the captain in the middle of her long sleep…

Chief officer ready for mooring operations on the foredeck, arriving in Svetlyy, Kaliningrad (Russia)

This time, no dogs, just the agent and one immigration officer. It went surprisingly fast and smooth.

Beautiful sunset, Ruyter Alongside in Svetlyy (Kaliningrad)

With Russian, you often need to do a draft survey before you start loading. A draft survey is basically taking the fore and aft drafts 🚢 , the middle drafts (portside and starboard side) and the water density💧. You will need to know exactly how much ballast you have in and also the density of the water that is in your ballast tanks ( for the same volume, freshwater is lighter than saltwater). You date the data before loading and after loading which will enable you -after a few calculations- to calculate the exact amount of cargo we carry in the hold. This amount should of course be the same (or as close as possible) to the shore scale; and will be written on the Bill of Lading 📝 signed by the captain. Pre and post-loading surveys are done with an external surveyor (usually belonging to the loading party) and are calculated on both sides. When there is a big difference this is when a discussion starts… Basically, a couple of tons difference is nothing but if you have 20 or 50 then… or there is a wrong figure with a ballast tank that we think is full for example and is not in reality, or it is simply that the cargo is not in the hold… despite what the shore scale says. You can double-check by retaking the drafts, and comparing them to the stability calculation program for example. But “drafts never lie”, as would tell me, Captain H.

Almost finished loading the Soja Bean Meal in Svetlyy ( Kaliningrad)

Kaliningrad started very smoothly: loading speed 150 tons/ hour which is quite slow. In case of good weather, it is great because we can just open up the hatches and follow the loading process while doing maintenance on deck for example or preparing voyage plannings 🛠 etc. There is more time for emptying the ballast tanks and for drinking coffee ;-). We had nice weather and as our next port of call would be Uusikaupunki in Finland and we were expecting strong northerly winds, I was afraid being on deck wouldn’t be so nice. So I decided to anticipate a little the deck maintenance and to be ahead of schedule. 12°C with no wind is always nicer than 0°C in wind. Besides with a slow loading process, it is less stressful and you can easily keep an eye doing small jobs on deck and be fully available by the end when it is more critical.

Soja Bean Meal looks just like cruesli and the taste isn’t so far either!

This time, the shore scale was wrong for over 50tons…. Which made us miss the convoy to exit Kaliningrad the night after completion. We shifted berth late that evening and departed the next morning just before lunchtime, after the visit of our friendly immigration officers 👮‍♂️ . Upon departure, they came in three: one was face-checking and stamping seaman’s books; the other two were… doing nothing, just standing there probably to impress us. But we are not. We laugh discreetly 🤭

The disadvantage of leaving Russia 12 hours later was that we headed into strong northerly winds💨: a good 7 But directly in the nose which didn’t make the voyage so nice ( but could be worse with wind on the beam, or stern which can make us rolling sometimes depending on the swell). This time we had short high waves till we reached the Bothnia Sea.

There were quite some impressive waves 🌊 smashing on the foredeck. Of course, even with my phone close by it is always difficult to catch a good impressive picture: it is known that the biggest wave will always come the moment you put the camera down and it is too late to take another shot, right?

Strong winds against in the Baltic Sea

I always have in mind that Finland 🇫🇮 has mountains. I haven’t been many times here but I am always surprised by the thousands of little islands all around: soft round rocks ( probably used by rough winters…) and lots of trees. I find it beautiful and I am always hoping I will have the chance to go ashore and have a nice long walk to explore further. I do not think small harbours such as Uusikaupunki have a lot to offer. I think by 22:00(LT) everything should be closed. Unlike the other Scandinavian harbours, they work all day long (07:00 till 23:30 LT). It makes again a long day for me, but I do not mind: this is the fun part of my job: the cargo operations! Especially when it goes smoothly and if the weather is great: a big blue sky, a big sunny day, fresh temperatures (8°C during the day, 2°C at night) but not “ cold”. Remember temperature is just a piece of information: you can (and should!) train your body to cold temperatures without having too many layers on 🥶 ! There is no need to always put on the heating…. That is a funny point: our deckhands are Indonesian and our engineer from Bonaire….. well trust me, when walking around the accommodation and different workspaces you also walk through the different Earth climates! Haha

Ruyter alongside in Uusikaupunki, Finland

Discharging went as planned and very smoothly. We then started cleaning the cargo and had to move a bit the bulkheads to clean the cargo that was spilt behind (leakage in the timber installed in the aft hold entrance). Such things happen sometimes but it makes the bulkheads difficult to move and it takes longer to prepare from the cleaning and sweeping ( see my previous post for the sweeping! 😉 ). And then off we went to Kotka. Good winds in our favour this time and Sunday at anchor! We will be expecting in harbour Monday 19th! My BIRTHDAY! 🎉 🎉 🎉 depending on the weather forecast!

Ready to start discharging the Soja Bean Meal in Uusikaupunki

We shall see! Till then…

Porthole view 🌊

See you next week! Xxx Sophie 😘 ♥️

PS: The nice thing with sailing more north and heading into colder days is that the water gets also colder and therefore my showers too! It is over one year now that I take daily cold showers and that my warm showers become more and more seldom! I am almost addicted to it. Followed with a nice black coffee, it is the perfect start of the day! Have you tried?

Cookie’s garden is slowly growing

Cookie’s vegetables a growing slowly! 🌱 🌱

2nd Term ~ Week 4. 🚢 ⚓️ ⭐️

Here we are at the end of week 4. Time flies. It s already 1 month that I am on board, and it honestly feels like a couple of weeks only.

Pilot boot: the Pilot will soon be boarding Ruyter
On the Belgian channel

We ended last week on the Kiel Channel 🇩🇪 heading toward Brugge 🇧🇪 with heavy winds. Speeding up to be on time at the Wandelaar pilot station. And guess what?! We were there on time. And of course, we had to wait for our pilot, which had been postponed also. The winds were still heavy so we did not drop anchor but the Captain decided to make turns in the water till the appointment time with the pilot boat. It was quite foggy but in the end, it all went well, he brought us to the Pierre Vandamme locks, then the last two hours were without pilot till our berthing place in Zeebrugge. Unfortunately, we couldn’t go ashore there which is a pity because the last time I had been there was in 2010 when I was sailing on the French Navy Dundee MUTIN!😍 during the Tall Ship’s Races ⛵️… The architecture there is really pretty and as you all know I am still an architect in my heart, I very much enjoy sightseeing and walking in cities to get the vibe and fill my eyes with beautiful buildings! But we get it. We are used to it by now, not being allowed to go ashore.🦠.

Ruyter alongside in Zeebrugge
Cargo operations in between counting drops

The worst was that we were Monday evening in Zeebrugge and we only started discharging a couple of days later. Do not ask me why. We were ready but they were probably too busy. We had to wait. The funny thing is that Tuesday was a good day to do cargo operations…. The following days were pretty rainy 🌧so more difficult as we need to quickly close the hatches when there is rain. But it is part f the job. And I do not mind it. It often ends up in counting drops and waiting. And doing maintenance when possible.

Even with the rain, I always try to be a happy and smily Sophie 🙂

We have 10 hatches that are decided into top and bottom hatches. Obviously, we have to first put the bottom hatches ( mainly the odd number hatches) then we can position the other ones. This means that in case f drizzle or rain, we try to limit to have either 1 or 3 hatches open at the minimum; depending on where we decide the crane driver should be digging out the cargo. It is not complicated but the first times you are using the hatch crane it happens that you forget it! 😂

A very calm stay in Zeebrugge

In Zeebrugge, a few things were scheduled for us: our annual survey with Bureau Veritas. I think the surveyor worked 2 hours…. We were very ready and didn’t have any items to comment on. It all went smoothly so it was perfect! I like to say that it was because of the female chief officer…. But it would be a bit discriminating for the mal crew working hard on board to keep the ship in great condition and an engine room nice and shiny… right? 😝 We had our annual MOB crane and boat survey, the annual radio survey too. It is safe to say that the bridge was pretty busy that morning! And in the afternoon as the discharging times kept on being postponed, we got provisions on board with a full crate of Carolina Reaper pepper… the hottest small red pepper in the world. Did I ever tell you we eat 2x spicy fire noodles on board as a challenge? Well-led by our not so crazy Captain, between hot food 🌶 and cold showers 🥶…. We just follow him 😂 I do not mind, I pick up those challenges pretty well.

Trying out the very flashy yellow raincoat… Visibility is always important when working in harbour

So… It took pretty long before we completed the discharge of the SBPP. I had the time to be really up to date with my maintenance to-do list. Most of the jobs are either administration jobs ( niiiice paperwork!), checking radio equipment systems, or greasing. So there I am greasing and cleaning on deck the equipment I use the most, but also anything that moves on deck.

And the discharge continues slowly, one hatch at the time!

It is such a big job from every moving part of the crane, the anchor winch, the fire flaps, the ventilation hatches, the watertight doors, the emergency exits, the rubbers, the pipe sounding caps…. It takes hours! That is why in our maintenance program it is split over a couple of weeks to spread it out a little. It works fine like that. The most important is that it is done regularly because with the very dusty bulk Caro we carry, the grease dries out and gets stuck. That isn’t good.
Because of the bad rainy weather, everything got postponed. As soon as we discharged, we had to go to Sas van Gent 🇳🇱 to load fertiliser.

Taking time to do maintenance on deck by greasing any moving parts including parts of the anchor winch

Again another cargo very dependent on weather conditions. The vessel before us wasn’t ready s we had to go out at anchor. I the beginning we thought it would be for the whole weekend, but actually only half a day. Great, but again another strange night with a lot to do: heaving up anchor, pilot onboard, change of pilot, through the locks, mooring…. Sailor’s life, but…. Short nights mean also short sleep 😴🥱. Normally this company doesn’t work on weekends, but to catch up with vessels we continued all Friday night till early Saturday morning and Sunday afternoon till completion. At least we could go and stretch our legs a little in Sas van Gent and have a beer 🍻 in the only café open….. a Saturday afternoon like a ghost city…. Strange 🤨, but I do not complain to have a nice walk in a so quiet environment! 😉 Next harbour, we will be changing captain again. I am not looking forward to that. It is like a piece of the ship that leaves us. I know the next captain, he is nice, but Captain H. is not replaceable. The thought of it makes me sad; sailor’s life. We always say goodbyes and always meet new people. The nice part of it is that we always meet again and that is something very nice to look forward to. always.
Enough talking for this week! ✌🏻

Alongside in Sas van Gent

See you next week! Xxx Sophie 😘 ♥️ @ Brugge, Belgium

2nd Term ~ Week 3. 🚢 ⚓️ ⭐️

I am catching up! Yeah! 🙂 -not- week 3 has finally passed by. Also as quick as it arrived. Discharged the salt in Stockvik and headed directly to Liepaja to load the Sugar beet Pulp Pellets (SBPP). Well…. It doesn’t look like sugar at all! And it absolutely doesn’t taste like it at all! 🤢It looks like black little Weetabix beans.

Discharging in Stockvik
Loading in Liepaja

And taste like old, dry, compact, mouldy Weetabix…. Without any sweetener. They say it is for animals. Well, I tried. I gave some to the ship’s dog, Duschi. She didn’t like it. I mean she ate one, not the others. I was surprised because she is a little bit of a round Jack Russel… probably from not walking as much as she used to (corona times…. Right?), and eating all the leftover meat and sausages the cooks onboard give her… So food for animals, maybe; not for dogs. Apparently.

Duschi, Captain’s H. Dog! All Emily on this picture!

When the SBPP are wet, they expand absorbing all the water; like Weetabix would do with milk, but then it stinks like rotten grain or pig excrements….🤮

This is what Sugar Beat Pellets look like
Almost finished loading in Liepaja!

Okay enough describing. It was really good weather in Liepaja when we loaded: over 20 degrees, short and teeshirt time, enjoying the last bits of summer taste. I hope that when we discharge in Brugge 🇧🇪 in a few days, we will avoid the rainy windy times Belgium tends to have; and hopefully, the quays will smell better there too.

The quayside in Liepaja covered in cargo …

From Liepaja to Brugge, we knew we were going to have another couple of heavy sailing days 💨🌊. The west coast of Europe was going to face very strong N- NNW winds – again – and I was not looking forward to that. Not that I get seasick (although when I am tired, I get a bit more sleepy…) but because of the waves smashing on the ship and when heading into the wind, it is not so nice to sleep either. NNW, when sailing out of the Elbe, with strong currents… oh my God, my colleagues will all know that Around Cuxhaven and in the German Bight it then because a nightmare.
I think we were lucky because the wind veered a little to N then NNE, which was then perfect for us – or let’s say better than expected! At least we keep the speed in the vessel.

Enjoying the warm weather!

Because this is also something very interesting 🧐 : We have to be on time for our next harbour. Ha! You would probably reply to me: “Duh! Obvious!” 🙄. Well yes, indeed obvious. But sometimes it is a kind of “game” between parties: in case of delay, who was ready and waiting first. Most of the times it goes totally fine. But sometimes, you have to make sure that the vessel is not “faulty”: as per contract, she agreed on being in a certain place at a certain time. Heavy weather can slow us down, and even if it is not our fault and there is not much we can do about it, the shore party waiting to receive the cargo is ready and waiting for us so they can claim that we are delayed.
In the same way, heavy weather was this time in our favour: due to the very heavy seas and winds, all pilotage was suspended in the Wandelaar area ( the approaches of Zeebrugge). It is compulsory in that area to have a pilot on board to enter Zeebrugge up to the locks. In this case, all the vessels needed to wait at anchor ( not nice in this weather, trust me! – that is why we didn’t we kept drifting around…). And then it is a “first come first take” when the Pilots can board vessels again…. The idea was that we were there as early as possible to show we did all we could to be on time, despite the bad weather, and that the fact that Pilots or locks are not on schedule is not our fault, so we can edit a notice of readiness from that point (an official notice to say the ship was ready and on time). Usually, this notice is edited when we are alongside and in harbour, speed locks and wedges open and the crane ready to proceed with the opening of the hatches. Sometimes it is slightly different, like this time.

Ruyter in the locks in Holtenau!
Ruyter in the locks in Brunsbüttel!

It was very nice to sail through the Kieler Kanal 🇩🇪 again. I know everybody hates that channel: boring, they say, we need to wake up the crew for the pilot change and to handle the huge unhandy pilot ladder, we need to go through the locks and wait…. I find that channel quite relaxing: people cycling all along, waving at you, trees, the smell of the countryside, Yes! Something you forget about when you are a lot at sea or in the harbour! Well, the Kiel channel often makes me smile, I do not mind it…. If the pilots steer all the way 😉 ! This time we had our trainee… he needed steering time for his task book. 👌🏻
Oh well. Sailor’s life right? But I enjoy it. And the people I work with too. 🤪 we are crazy 😏
Well off I go! Over and out.

Bye from Duschi too!

See you next week! Xxx Sophie 😘 ♥️. @ Stockvik