3d Term, Week 1 🤩⚓️

17th-24th of January 2021

There I am again! Just back on board for the next 2 months! I have been waiting for this moment to come for a few days now… Indeed. I have to still get used to the fact that with cargo ships, days in the harbour are not always as planned! The weather was a bit strong and the vessel got delayed. The crew change was supposed to happen in Kotka (Finland), but with the delay, it was easier for (and probably better?) to wait for the next harbour: Delfzijl (the Netherlands).

Frozen aircraft at the airport

So this is what happened, I took a Covid PCR test a few days before my flight. I needed a negative one of course to board the ship but also to have access to my flight. It was very easy to get an appointment for the test. But these things are not made for seafarers… I mean with a fixed date and a booked flight, it is easy to pick a time 72hrs before the flight. But when you do not know 72 hrs before when your flight will be, it makes it all a bit more… well let’s say, « crazy ».

In the end, it went well and I boarded without any problem for Paris Charles-de-Gaulle and then to Schiphol. It was quite cold already and in Paris, there was a lot of snow and we got a delay of 2 hours. Another delay for me to arrive onboard… I still needed to fetch the rental car and drive up to Delfzijl to the ship (3,5 hours drive) and of course, go to the immigration office before joining the ship. I managed all of it but… I arrived exhausted from a full day. Nice way to start « fresh » right? : Early departure-late arrival-handover day… Without forgetting that it was snowing like crazy all the way north to the ship: slow diving on the highway while only one lane was being used and so much snow was already on the other lane!

My relief was going to dive the car back home; also in the middle of the night and the snow.

When I arrived, they had finished discharging the fertilizer they had brought from Kotka. The hold still needed to be washed and bulkheads prepared for our next cargo which was going to be wheat (grain). I was a bit worried if I had to take over directly in the hold washing or not because as soon as I arrived on board and that the handover was done, we were departing which meant I was supposed to be on watch at midnight again! Getting back into ship’s life can be quite confusing sometimes.

The view from the bridge when I was gettkng my handover: snow with a cargo hold to wash…

Luckily, the captain had arranged the schedule already and I could go directly to bed to catch up on a few small 6hours of sleep before my watch.

Sometimes it happens in the harbour that there is so little time but that is the way it is and those moments feel like “go go go” moments when you do not stop. You know you will eventually catch up on your sleep during the voyage.

#sailorslife.

I still love my job do not worry. Haha. Also, funny fact, when I was working on tall ships, our handovers were always way longer. A few legit reasons for that: we had way more people and crew on board. I was the main chief officer so I was the longest onboard a lot of the things to be explained for a good follow up. There were systems to take care of I also often needed to familiarize or re-familiarize the on signer with the ship and its safety equipment and that is quite complex and takes some time to assimilate. A « quick run-through » would take me a good two hours.

Now I am not so long off the ship, and I can familiarize myself back into the systems and safety on my own.

Anyways. There we were underway to Germany. – East Germany. A very nice area to go for walks, but unfortunately due to Covid.. – we are not allowed ashore. Of course in the middle of the night, we were in the Kiel Channel

So everyone’s sleep was totally messed up. That is usually what happens when we sail through the Kiel Channel.

So that was just a hectic start but a none and the less good start. I was really happy to see the crew again and just to be back on board.

So, the first cargo: wheat. With bulkheads. Wheat is grain, and there are specific regulations for transporting grain on board. Grain tends to shift when we heel so we should always make sure that the hold is as full as possible. This means it has to be all the way to the top of the coaming. Well, we managed that of course. We do not want to transport air right?

Wheat cargo
Cargo all the way up to the coaming!

It was nice to be back with Captain Harry because we always end doing up crazy things. Well, I do not find them that crazy but it is more like we do “daring things” never like the others. We taste our cargo for example. This one was a bit dry and hard.

That day, there was also a bit of wind so all the light dust was flying around. Not a big deal, but the ship becomes quite dusty inside too and all the small corners on deck too. Especially where there is grease, it tends to stick directly to those areas! Of course…

The ship under snow!
Ready to load in Germany!

We did already have a bit of snow and I was getting all excited about it haha! I tried for the first time the winter overalls for the crew. I honestly had packed so much warm clothing thinking I would be quite cold working outside in the wind and on the hatch crane without really moving much to warm up my body. But the winter overall is way too warm if I put the woollen clothes under! I would almost better be just in teeshirt underneath! That being said, we are now still in positive temperatures and I am not so sure yet what will happen when if we sail to Russia or through the Gulf of Finland or the Bothnia Sea. So for the moment, I keep it as it is and it is great! With the wheat, we will be sailing to New Holland (UK), on the Humber River. Then we will load our next cargo also close by.

And always ready Sophie!

Till then I am enjoying nice sailing and sunsets indeed with night coming earlier, it is dark at 1700 and I am still on watch! It doesn’t happen often to have the sunset in my watch, so I enjoy it as long as I can.

Leaving the harbour full of dust!

And of course, enjoying the nice Sunday at sea!

Did you also notice that I always join on a Sunday? So my weeks and time onboard are very easy to count and to keep track of! Great!

Enjoy your sunday at sea!

This is fun to be back on board! Feels great! See you next week!

2nd Term ~ Week 6. 🚢 ⚓️ ⭐️

Week 6 was an interesting one! Last week we were sailing out of Kolding 🇩🇰 to Kaliningrad 🇷🇺.

The narrow channel leading to Kaliningrad

I have been only once in Russia. Last year with this vessel. We had 10 days in the dry dock then loading the soja bean meal in the same place as where we are heading now ( Svetlyy). I was a bit nervous about all the documents and paperwork the Russians ask us to prepare. But apparently, as they have had a lot of trouble with shipping companies boycotting their harbour because of that, they have smoothened up procedures a little. They still need a lot of declarations from the vessel and still do face-checks upon arrival… 👮 and ask you very seriously: “Sophie?” Looking at the picture on your seaman’s book with a doubting eye…. “Yes…. That is me…?!”. Probably my picture doesn’t look like me: Pretty Sophie with combed hair and a little make-up vs Sleepy Sophie just after a long night watch and called out of bed by the captain in the middle of her long sleep…

Chief officer ready for mooring operations on the foredeck, arriving in Svetlyy, Kaliningrad (Russia)

This time, no dogs, just the agent and one immigration officer. It went surprisingly fast and smooth.

Beautiful sunset, Ruyter Alongside in Svetlyy (Kaliningrad)

With Russian, you often need to do a draft survey before you start loading. A draft survey is basically taking the fore and aft drafts 🚢 , the middle drafts (portside and starboard side) and the water density💧. You will need to know exactly how much ballast you have in and also the density of the water that is in your ballast tanks ( for the same volume, freshwater is lighter than saltwater). You date the data before loading and after loading which will enable you -after a few calculations- to calculate the exact amount of cargo we carry in the hold. This amount should of course be the same (or as close as possible) to the shore scale; and will be written on the Bill of Lading 📝 signed by the captain. Pre and post-loading surveys are done with an external surveyor (usually belonging to the loading party) and are calculated on both sides. When there is a big difference this is when a discussion starts… Basically, a couple of tons difference is nothing but if you have 20 or 50 then… or there is a wrong figure with a ballast tank that we think is full for example and is not in reality, or it is simply that the cargo is not in the hold… despite what the shore scale says. You can double-check by retaking the drafts, and comparing them to the stability calculation program for example. But “drafts never lie”, as would tell me, Captain H.

Almost finished loading the Soja Bean Meal in Svetlyy ( Kaliningrad)

Kaliningrad started very smoothly: loading speed 150 tons/ hour which is quite slow. In case of good weather, it is great because we can just open up the hatches and follow the loading process while doing maintenance on deck for example or preparing voyage plannings 🛠 etc. There is more time for emptying the ballast tanks and for drinking coffee ;-). We had nice weather and as our next port of call would be Uusikaupunki in Finland and we were expecting strong northerly winds, I was afraid being on deck wouldn’t be so nice. So I decided to anticipate a little the deck maintenance and to be ahead of schedule. 12°C with no wind is always nicer than 0°C in wind. Besides with a slow loading process, it is less stressful and you can easily keep an eye doing small jobs on deck and be fully available by the end when it is more critical.

Soja Bean Meal looks just like cruesli and the taste isn’t so far either!

This time, the shore scale was wrong for over 50tons…. Which made us miss the convoy to exit Kaliningrad the night after completion. We shifted berth late that evening and departed the next morning just before lunchtime, after the visit of our friendly immigration officers 👮‍♂️ . Upon departure, they came in three: one was face-checking and stamping seaman’s books; the other two were… doing nothing, just standing there probably to impress us. But we are not. We laugh discreetly 🤭

The disadvantage of leaving Russia 12 hours later was that we headed into strong northerly winds💨: a good 7 But directly in the nose which didn’t make the voyage so nice ( but could be worse with wind on the beam, or stern which can make us rolling sometimes depending on the swell). This time we had short high waves till we reached the Bothnia Sea.

There were quite some impressive waves 🌊 smashing on the foredeck. Of course, even with my phone close by it is always difficult to catch a good impressive picture: it is known that the biggest wave will always come the moment you put the camera down and it is too late to take another shot, right?

Strong winds against in the Baltic Sea

I always have in mind that Finland 🇫🇮 has mountains. I haven’t been many times here but I am always surprised by the thousands of little islands all around: soft round rocks ( probably used by rough winters…) and lots of trees. I find it beautiful and I am always hoping I will have the chance to go ashore and have a nice long walk to explore further. I do not think small harbours such as Uusikaupunki have a lot to offer. I think by 22:00(LT) everything should be closed. Unlike the other Scandinavian harbours, they work all day long (07:00 till 23:30 LT). It makes again a long day for me, but I do not mind: this is the fun part of my job: the cargo operations! Especially when it goes smoothly and if the weather is great: a big blue sky, a big sunny day, fresh temperatures (8°C during the day, 2°C at night) but not “ cold”. Remember temperature is just a piece of information: you can (and should!) train your body to cold temperatures without having too many layers on 🥶 ! There is no need to always put on the heating…. That is a funny point: our deckhands are Indonesian and our engineer from Bonaire….. well trust me, when walking around the accommodation and different workspaces you also walk through the different Earth climates! Haha

Ruyter alongside in Uusikaupunki, Finland

Discharging went as planned and very smoothly. We then started cleaning the cargo and had to move a bit the bulkheads to clean the cargo that was spilt behind (leakage in the timber installed in the aft hold entrance). Such things happen sometimes but it makes the bulkheads difficult to move and it takes longer to prepare from the cleaning and sweeping ( see my previous post for the sweeping! 😉 ). And then off we went to Kotka. Good winds in our favour this time and Sunday at anchor! We will be expecting in harbour Monday 19th! My BIRTHDAY! 🎉 🎉 🎉 depending on the weather forecast!

Ready to start discharging the Soja Bean Meal in Uusikaupunki

We shall see! Till then…

Porthole view 🌊

See you next week! Xxx Sophie 😘 ♥️

PS: The nice thing with sailing more north and heading into colder days is that the water gets also colder and therefore my showers too! It is over one year now that I take daily cold showers and that my warm showers become more and more seldom! I am almost addicted to it. Followed with a nice black coffee, it is the perfect start of the day! Have you tried?

Cookie’s garden is slowly growing

Cookie’s vegetables a growing slowly! 🌱 🌱

2nd Term ~ Week 5. 🚢 ⚓️ ⭐️

This week went extremely fast, once again. Last week we left The Netherlands 🇳🇱 for Denmark 🇩🇰 . Another passage through the Kiel channel and up North towards Kolding. The weather was this time nicer so we arrived fast in our next port of call. The Kiel channel was also smooth this time: entering before midnight and exiting around 8 am which made a good night sleep for the captain…. But less for me actually because I came before the locks when the pilot came on board near Brunsbüttel and till Pilot Change at kilometre 55 of the channel. And we had to wait for ages in the big northern lock for another tiny vessel to come in. So a bit less sleep but again, that is the way it is! 😊 Besides, entering the Little Belt in Denmark I had a great surprise with beautiful tall ships sailing ⛵️ . What a nice view! One of them was Hendrika Barthelds. She belongs to one of my previous captains. Nice to see that some are still sailing and looking good.

Hendrika Barthelds through my binoculars

It was then strange weather: big blue sunny sky then suddenly big rain shower 🌧. I was pretty glad I was inside a bridge… two years ago I could have been standing watch outside or helming in the fresh breeze and rain. Some would call that “wet, cold and miserable” 😩 . I guess when it doesn’t happen that often it just toughens you up 💪🏻 and doesn’t make you as miserable as your brains would let you believe…. Another good thing is the number of big rainbows 🌈 that we were so lucky to admire with these rain-sun intervals. It seemed we were heading straight towards the pot of gold in Kolding 😂 .

Rainbows underway to Kolding

The entrance of Kolding is a very narrow channel with not much depth out of it. Actually not at all. We would for sure run aground directly if we sailed out of it. The buoys are also not so big in Danish waters. They are also not lit; so you pretty much have to pay attention to navigation … 🙄 But Danish fjords are really lovely. As nice as the Mariager fjord we sailed into a couple of weeks ago.

The narrow fjord heading to Kolding
On the quay after checking the drafts in Kolding

No swimming this time, probably because the cold water swimming Captain left in this port to go home and our new captain is much more a running fanatic than a swimmer. Or maybe just not a fan of cold water swimming… 🥶 So we just carried on with discharging the fertilizer: the first day only 1:30… then it was raining the whole day. And the next day we did a bit of overtime to be able to complete asap. Their forecast was for us to remain the whole weekend in Kolding and finish the last couple of hundred tons on Monday morning… Well for sure we do not really like that as our next order is waiting for us in Russia. So we did over time and completed really fast on Friday end afternoon.

Early rise for the chief officer: opening hatches and starting up the day

It is strange. Danish working times are like in some Swedish harbours: start at 07:00 and stop at 15:30 with I do not know how many breaks in between. I really think they could be more efficient… But honestly, it also gives us a break if we have had heavy sailing and little sleep the previous days. And I like long sleeps and a walk ashore too! These will still have to wait a few days, till the next opportunity.

Ruyter moored in Kolding, Denmark

To make the ship ready for departure after completion there are still a few steps to do. Usually, the ship would already be in ballast as the water ballast tanks are filled while the cargo is being discharged. By the end, the crane driver hoists a bobcat in the hold to grab all the little piles of remaining cargo and push them to make a bigger one. Easier for the crane driver and the big unhandy grab he as (although crane drivers are usually good! This time he knocked one of our hatches on the top side which made a scratch. I was sad for the freshly painted hatch, but there was no big deal). A couple of men from the team shore go down to the hold with brooms and they sweep the rest of the cargo towards the big pile. In Brugge the sweepers did an excellent job; probably used to the river ships where it needs to be done perfectly. Here it wasn’t as good…. That is where we come in: the AB’s, myself, the trainee, the engineer if he has time and the captain too sometimes, comes in and we sweep the cargo to have a hold as clean as possible before we wash it. The cleaner the easier the wash will be. Obviously. Then it all depends on the cargo: if it is corn, fertilizer, grain…. They do not react to water in the same way. Fertilizer dissolves in the water so the hold will be very clean after it has been washed. When it is corn, we have to pick up all the little grains we see. But for that, we have different type of brooms 🧹 too: harder brush and thinner brush for the smaller dust. Cargos are not allowed to be mixed and in the next harbours hold surveyors come to inspect it.

The last fertilizer cargo
Brooms, brooms and brooms

Usually, once the bobcat is out, then discharge is completed. Then most of the times we have to be fast as we rarely remain alongside in those cases: hatches closed, speed locks secured, gangway back onboard, hatch crane in parking position and secured and all lines cast off. The order varies depending on the weather and if we have a channel or river underway. It doesn’t take long to secure the equipment, it can also be done accordingly, underway.

The bobcat in the hold

This time, eventually after completion, we sailed out of Kolding Friday evening, on ballast, direction Kaliningrad Russia 🇷🇺 with fair winds in our favour. The hold was perfectly swept and the hold would be washed the next morning underway.

Ruyter moored in Kolding, Denmark

My second time in Russia. One year later when I was still new to all of this. I have such good memories! ✌🏻

See you next week! Xxx Sophie 😘 ♥️

Ps: did I tell you that cookie is growing vegetables in the galley?! 🌱