31st-6th of June 2021

Ok. So here we are having left Hamburg last week-end and sailed through Sunday to Hvide Sande where we arrived very early on Monday morning. When we arrive in harbours like this very early; I am usually still sleeping as I have had the night watch till 4 am. When I came up around noon for my watch, the discharging had started already and it was beautiful sunny weather. It seemed that finally, we had entered summer. What a nice feeling! Hvide Sande is a small fishing harbour on the west coast of Danemark, North of Esbjerg. I remember now from last time that they have a couple of speakers on the quay with bird sounds to frighten the « real » seagulls so that they wouldn’t eat the cargo. It was quite surprising the first time…. Because I couldn’t figure out where it would come from. It made me smile because I realized that being at sea we tend to forget a few smells and sounds. Onboard of course, systems are constantly running and the ventilation is also always on; so there is almost constantly a background sound. If you go out on the foredeck you clearly hear the difference with only the sound of the water against the hull.

Last time we were here in September 2020 we took time to have a really nice long walk on the beach. The Danish coast on that side is quite « empty »: long dunes, kilometres of sandy beaches and all seem to be in the same tones: grey sea, grey-beige sand and grey-white sky. You got me. But it is still beautiful 🙂 This time, after we stopped discharging for the day and after dinner, we went for a nice walk on the city side: a few shops, a lot of fishing industry and…. The beach again. I would not say it is a cute little harbour, but it was nice and calm and all closed – of course – after dinner time, usually most of the places are closed. I was impressed by the fact that there was even a small place where people could fix their bicycles themselves: a fixed pump for the tires, a fixed pal to hoist it with a few tools on a cable to use! I find it great to have a small town where you can put some equipment at disposal of the inhabitants and it stays there, nobody takes it!

The next day, the cargo hold was empty by the end of the morning. Unfortunately we had placed some tarpaulins wrong on the openings of the bulkheads that were stored in the aft, so I wanted to take the time to move them slightly to remove the cargo from behind. Indeed last year I made some custom made tarpaulins with very strong magnets that could be places against the wood closing the openings when we have thin cargo in bulk. These are very strong magnets and the tarpaulins prevents leakages of the cargo which is very handy. This time they were positioned against the bulkhead and because of how the cargo was poured in the hold, it was not 100% efficient. Luckily it was very little cargo, but I like good cleanses and not half jobs. While the bobcat was still gathering the rest of the cargo in the forward part, we could easily take the time to move around bulkheads in the aft and make a pile before completion for the bobcat to pick up; which happened. The hold was cleaned after lunch in less than two hours and we headed to Heroya in Normay by mid afternoon. A less than 24hours sail. An easy sail. We all like that. When it is easy I mean. I think we probably all prefer to have long sails to stay in a routine of course. Although being a few days in harbour is also nice because we can then work more efficiently during the day and get more jobs done rather than having a crew split through the day.

The fjord leading to Heroya was very nice. Not the nicest I had seen in Norway: the west coast is beautiful with the tall mountains surrounding the fjords. This time there were no mountains. The houses were nice, but it wasn’t as nice as around Arendal or Kristiansand. It was « just » nice because it was different and there was something to see. In anywise, I enjoyed the view, and thought every minute how beautiful it was. We were going to be at anchor for a couple of days due to congestion in the harbour. Indeed, another vessel – sister ship of RUYTER- LEONIE, was there for more than 10 days already waiting for the same cargo as us. They would also be sailing to Finland after that. I was very much looking forward to being at anchor because usually we make time for a swim call …. And I really wanted to swim especially now that sunny days were finally showing up!

The anchorage was not at all as expected, nor the sight we had. It felt like Heroya harbour was actually an industrial harbour, just the Yara fertilizer factory. There were quite a few other vessels also at anchor, and some tankers big enough to be more than twice our size too. They seemed to be heading to the other side of the fjord where there was another big industry. Not at all what I had imagined, especially after all those years sailing on tall ships and racing and visiting Norwegian harbours from the west coast!. But because of the sun and the very calm waters, it somehow still felt nicer than our previous experience out of the Humber river!

We had finally planned a swim call on a late afternoon when Captain H received a phone call from the agent that a pilot would come onboard for us to precede to a waiting berth, opposite of Leonie: next morning we would get our hold inspection. So change of plan and no swimming but that is the way it goes here. You have to be flexible and not so disappointed when changes happen, otherwise, it doesn’t make you happy. You have to try to find the positive: no swim call, but no night watch either and a full night sleep!

To be honest, I was so tired from the previous shifts And changes in my sleeping schedule that I preferred to head to bed instead of meeting up with the crew from Leonie that evening. Sometimes, it is also nice to chill in your cabin, read or watch a bit of a movie; to cut your self a bit from the rest. The next morning, I still had to wake up earlier together with the captain for the ultrasound test. I would have time later to meet them….. It didn’t take long before they came to us…. Apparently having a « woman on board » makes the vessel suddenly very interesting…. And people come with « excuses » with the whole crew to « checkup on the woman officer »…..

Rewind.

Friday morning we had our hold inspection and ultrasonic test. We usually never have a problem because the hatches are water tight and our hold is in good condition. Therefore when inspectors start marking things down, we know that it is usually because they have problems with their cargo and want to blame us for not being ready so that we cannot start our notice of readiness…. It is all about business and money in this case. If we are not ready, they do not have to pay for the lost time and we would have to pay for a second inspection…. Anyhow. Money and power kind of rules these situations. That morning, we knew of course that there was no cargo because of Leonie. Duh. And the moment the inspectors stepped on deck, we knew what was going to happen. They started bye talking down to me and finding tiny « wiggles » in speed locks and ordered me to tighten them. No please, no kind words…. I was a bit annoyed. Then they started marking with chalk measurements from the ultrasonic test…. Like if our hold was leaking everywhere. What?! Not possible. I was asked our previous last 3 cargos by one of the inspectors. A few minutes later the other inspector asked me and I replied « oh I told your colleague already »…. What hadn’t I said! I promise I said it nicely! But they started telling me I had to cooperate otherwise they would leave the ship. What?! I just replied that I had told the colleague and because he couldn’t remember it was my fault? So I just repeated with calm: soya bean meal, feed phosphate and limestone… and the older inspector really started becoming irritating and talking down to me. So Captain H. Of course told them that they were not allowed to talk to me like that and that I was not their dog and he mentioned to them that it was very surprising that as there was no cargo, suddenly our hatches were not good… right…. And then we started arguing because they were saying we were not cooperating. Well They ended up leaving the ship. Ok. What just happened here?

No problem, we took materials to replace parts of the rubber, and to check first is they actually needed to be changed…. It is not a complicated job, but not always so easy because you are working but upside down and the rubbers are tough and you need to squeeze them in metal rails and hammer them in.

After a few phone calls to the office, we surprisly saw the inspectors coming back to the ship, all sweet to us. They said they could check our rubbers by lifting the hatches individually and see which ones needed replacement to their opinion. Ok. So this is what we did: replaced a couple for them (sarcastic remark from me: not at all the same corners indicated by the ultrasonic test….. hum hum). Apparently this is very common: when there is no cargo replace a couple of rubbers to make everyone happy and when there is lots of cargo, of course, everything is always fine.

So there we were with a couple new rubbers when our neighbors and colleagues from Leonie all three officers show up to our gangway with a small invention of theirs (I must say it was pretty simple and a good idea to win time! L.. took a picture so that he could make such tool because in dry dock it is already planned that we will replace all our rubbers!); but then they were suddenly not so discreetly staring at me. Haha. Gotcha. Once they were gone, captain H was looking at me saying that had come for me. To check me out. Naaaa not true I replied. He said yes. This is how men do. They come with a lame excuse to the ship just to see « the woman ». Haha. Oh well. 😉

Anyways. They were nice, they came later on for a coffee. They would be loading end of the afternoon and we would be shifting to their berth directly after and racing them to Uusikaupunki, Finland.

And that is how the week ended: fast shift of berth, fast loading, smooth and easy, no rain, like we like it. And off to Finland with a nice easy Sunday sail: beautiful sunny weather, 25 degrees, not one ripple in the Skagerrak. Perfect. Hopefully it will stay like this for a while now :-).

I am very glad I had the chance to speak with my father for his birthday Saturday and a nice chat with my parents is always welcome! And with my sister on Sunday for her birthday too! I feel I never call enough and should definitely too it more often! I like my family. I am lucky!

Have a nice Sunday and see you next week!

Big hugs, Sophie 🙂