4th Term, Week 6 ⛴⛴

7th-13th of June 2021

So… here we are again, a new week and a new little blurb on what I have learnt this week…. I ended last Sunday at see between Heroya and Uusikaupunki with a beautiful sail: sunny, no wind, relaxed, all up to date, perfect. Just like it should be. I very much enjoy those times on the bridge when I can just enjoy the navigation part and looking outside at the sea and even enjoying a cup of coffee in the sun. A little bit of vitamin D always makes my day!

Perfect sailing weather to Finland
Even during the night watch😍

Sometimes days in harbour are tough and very demanding. I know that and I accept that even though my lack of sleep can make me (bit) lazy and probably a bit grumpy too. I often think of how mental strength makes things easier and have-ing a good mindset or the kind of one that « just gets it done » make all the difference. But to be honest, I sometimes also need a pull or push to stay in that mind set too…When I was on the sail training ships one of my motos were:

« If you sit they lay down, if you stand they sit, if you walk they stand, if you run they walk »

The idea was that you always had to be one step ahead of the people you were training, or those you were leading…. It feel the same here. Not that I am ahead or leading anybody but as we are only 6 onboard, if we do not get the good dynamic for working – and happily working- well the jobs suddenly get more heavy to do.

Doing a short tour on deck while sailing: my happy silent place…

Sometimes I wonder if I still have that strength in me but then I think: wait Sophie these are totally two different jobs! Indeed, what I now find the most disruptive is my lack of sleep; but because it can sometimes be so random and over a week never have the same pattern: sleeping at times when I would normally be fully away and vice versa and also not having a same day following the other. And I found that that was my weakness. So as soon as I can I try to get my rest to keep it up. But of course the body doesn’t really understand what is going on: has to sleep, doesn’t have to sleep? How long? Two hours? Six hours? Well to be honest it happened that I sometimes had the chance to have a 2 hours nap or a 6 hour sleep and couldn’t close my eyes even though I was exhausted…. There was absolutely nothing I could do but toss and turn in bed. The body just doesn’t always follow…. But then surprisingly, when things need to happen, there is no problem anymore.

Luckily I had now a few days where I could rest and catch up. And that was great!

Just smile and be happy, in the end it will all be fine

Another nice thing about sailing up north was that days became longer of course so at the end of my watch I could really enjoy the sun rising again and I simply love those moments. They are magical and peaceful. I feel that I do not have enough of those moments anymore: no sun sets, no sunrises…. Like if the job of the chief officer onboard cargo vessels was the « filling in position ». The captain having the watches that are the most « normal » ones (besides when we need to come in the harbour or leave in the afternoons… of course that is tough. And the other officer has also mostly a « day job » starting at 4 am in the bridge and the afternoon in the engine room, with a long 10hour rest at night. Well. On the other hand, if you do not sleep well one night you are ruined for the rest of the day, in my watch hours, I know I can eventually go back to bed at a maximum of 6 hours later…. That is also nice.

The sun rising at the end of my watch… Just amazing!

Oh well, I am of course not complaining! I like my watch, it is fine for me, but explained sometimes that I get quite disorientated when I normally go to bed at 4 am and sometimes I have to get up at that very same time!

When we arrived in Uusikaupunki a few days later, we found the Leonie again. Actually we never really lost her: she had to bunker so we catch up on her until dropping anchor close by in Uusikaupunki only 1,5 hours after her! Funny! There was « congestion » in the harbour, so we had to wait…. Of course. So again, had time to put all my administration in order and up to date and enjoy a very nice, calm and beautiful time at anchor.

Along side in Uusikapunki, astern of Leonie

Luckily we did not have to wait long before we could sail into the harbour and start discharging, moored ahead of Leonie. We finished discharging very early in the morning and off we were to our next harbour in Finland: Kotka.

Discerning at night in Uusikaupunki
And still in the early morning…

In Kotka, we would load fertilizer and sail to Delfzijl. We know that trip, we have done it a few times already. It was the famous trip where our engine « exploded* » (* did not really explode but you get the idea!) in Brunsbüttel 1,5 years ago when I was trainee onboard.

In Delfzijl there is a draft restriction, we have to be even keel and not over 5,00m otherwise we hit the ground…. And we do not really want that. I like training for even keel because it makes the loading a bit more interesting – not that it is not interesting- but more that you have to be in control of how much and where you load. Of course, although it is always the Captain’s plan – and it is always the same way we are loading almost every cargo… -… I applied it well – or as best as I could- because I pretty much was the only one up during loading….

Indeed, you remember how I said that all our schedules were blown away when we had short trips and fast loadings? Well this is exactly one of those situations….

I would never want to miss this… Yet I do miss my 4-8 watches on sailing vessels…

We arrived in the end of the afternoon in Kotka. They load quite fast here, so we know that we will be out again in 6-8 hours. As we need a pilot, and of course need to maneuver the ship, the captain has to be on watch then. So he is the one finishing with the loading plan and starting up the engine; then he wakes up the ABs and an officer. In this case the other officer. Because the loading is my department (deck officer), the engine officer comes on deck for cargo operations usually only if we are loading 24hours. So there we were: basically the captain and I swopped watches so that he could get some sleep before departing again, which he did.

In the meantime just another cup of coffee in the sun… #happysocks ready to go in work boots…

In Kotka, the loading goes really fast, usually around 600-700t per hour. I like it when it is fast. I had per instructions to wake up the captain when we were at average draft 4,5m. Remember, we could only load up to 5,00m, so we still had 50cm to go. On our ship, it is approximatly 1cm= 10tons midships, and closer to 1ton per cm fore and aft while loading in those areas.

Regularly I check the drafts marks to have an average draft so that I am able to calculate how much cargo is already in the hold. The first time, after approximately one hour, I had already 900 tons in! I had to recalculate thinking like « wow this is going fast! ». Then I reminded myself that the stevedore said they would put two big tractors to load the belt so it indeed goes way faster. I did a quick calculation… if in 1 hour we had 900t, how long would it take to reach the target of 3000 t? Well 3×900 = 2700… I think captain would only have a short rest before I’d have to wake him up again!

Alongside in Kotka

So there I was, an hour later: 1800t. I like it when it goes fast. It was also nice because I was then very busy deballasting all the tanks and striping them via the ejector to make sure there was no water left inside. It is easy to do, but it takes time because you have to do one tank at a time and the ejector is quite a slow system – even though very efficient. It was a busy watch, and I am glad the weather was good and no rain was forecasted otherwise I would have really been busy. The only thing was that the wind was picking up so I wasn’t sure how easy it would be to take the drafts later for the draft survey.

We did a draft survey before starting loading and we had to do another one after loading so that we knew how much cargo we had. The idea is to take the drafts fore and aft but also midships on the Portside and starboard side. Then with trim corrections, ships various weights and the amount of ballast before and after, we can calculate how much cargo we have in our hold. For school of course, you would have to do this by hand, but we have a excel sheet program that a previous captain sailing onboard Ruyter did very nicely by locking the fields we couldn’t touch and enabling only the cells where we had to enter information. Perfect tool!

I finally checked the drafts marks and we were getting closer to the average of 4,50m -where I had to wake Captain H. up. Only 5 cm to go, which meant 50 tons. I was loading in the stern of the ship and as you recall, we had to be even keel for Delfzijl. I had the instruction to not go over 5,10m on the stern draft. And it was getting really closer so I decided to wake up captain because it would not be long before we were done with loading! 50cm is 500t, which is a big half hour! I think we were not really expecting to be as quick in this harbour, but perfect!

Ruyter loading fertilizer in Kotka

The only thing that made me a bit nervous was that by the time I got back out on the stern, we were already at 5,00m! Oh no! I ran to the stevedore controlling the belt and told him to move forward – which he acknowledged. But it was going too slow to me taste and I could see the water coming to 5,15m! I shouted at him to stop which still took too long to my eyes…. But eventually it happened…. And I was at 5,20m!!! Ahhh 😨 my heart was beating quite fast…had I just ruined the whole loading plan?

I asked the stevedore to load as far forward as possible to get back even keel as quick as possible. And there it happened. Yes! IT happened! You might be thinking right now: what? What Sophie tell us! What happened?

Well….. we had just 20 minutes of loading to be done till completion and there was a fault on the last belt. So they had to stop to fix it. That did not take long. What took long was that the previous belts did not stop during the last belt’s fault and… the cargo accumulated on them so the mechanics couldn’t restart them because there was too much cargo on them! Yes I know…. Silly right?

The loading went very fast in Kotka

It literally took them over two hours to get that fixed…. In the mean time the Captain was wake – of course, I called him because we were supposed to be almost at the end of our loading process!- I felt sorry for him because he was missing out of two night good hours of sleep, but yeah. I didn’t really plan that, and honestly, he didn’t say anything either about it. He was just happy and ok to be there! We just laughed at how we thought we were so unlucky these past few trips with losing time on events that were not our fault: loss of time waiting for bunkering, loss of time at anchor because of moving sandbanks on the Humber river, now this….

Oh well, there was nothing we could do about it so we took a cup of coffee. I think the cup of coffee is for seamen what the cup of tea is for British people… haha

Once the belts were running again we could load forward again. The ship came up right perfectly! We even added slowly slowly till we were perfectly on the draft marks. For that we had to stop the loading process to empty what was left on the belt: approximately 30 tons of cargo and then they could in the shed add grab per grab. 1 grab is approximately 6,4tons. So captain decided to add 2 grabs forward and three aft and see again what our drafts were. This way he could really control and choose where to position these last bits of cargo: more or less aft to be even keel.

I was standing on the hatch crane and checking if he was not heeling on one side or the other. Indeed you want a balanced ship because if you heel 1-2 degrees, for example, the bottom side of our hull is approximately 6 meters more outboard so for sure you are not on 5,00m anymore, and you may touch the ground in Delfzijl. Does that make sense to you? 😉

So. Finally loaded, draft survey done, waiting for the pilot I closed the hatches and made as ready as possible before I was sent to bed. Yep, I realized as exciting this day had been, I was quite tired and needed so rest, that was sure! The ABs and another officer would come half an hour later to take the lines in and sail home to The Netherlands. I was glad I could finally close my eyes! We were heading for a nice 4 day sail to The Netherlands and we could get back into a normal rhythm again: perfect: Saturday and Sunday at sea, no bad weather in the baltic but maybe some stronger winds in the north sea… we are not there yet. First things first: sleep, the rest will come next week!

Oh wait!

Happy birthday Captain H. 🎉🎉

Did I mention we had a special birthday onboard this week? No? Yes? Well it was Captain’s H. Birthday!!! Of course, I prepared a nice deco for the bridge and managed to get a picture of him in it, and of course, we had a delicious chocolate cake! He is « 39+ » but I am sure he feel like he is still in his 20’s! I always like birthdays on board…. Or maybe I like cakes. Or just both, could be. Anyways! Happy Birthday again Capatin H.!

Take care and big hugs!

Sophie

3d Term, Week 9 🤩⚓️

15th of March till I fly home on the 22nd!

There we were Monday morning still in Szczecin, Poland, finishing the discharge of the steel coils. There was not much left but enough to take up half a day and wait for the pilot to board so that we could proceed to Riga. This gave us time to prepare the hod, sweep it well, and make sure there were no remaining from the previous cargo in it: bits and pieces of plastic, lashing steel, etc. It goes fast and if you do not pay attention the guys working in our hold would also leave their crap behind that we would have to pick up and clean up for them: wraps of snacks, sweets, papers, empty cans, and bottles of water…. It is often like that. But I am never so happy with it and I often cannot keep my mouth shut for this type of things and I make sure that they pick up all their trash before they finish. Sometimes it is a bit of a fight. But I am right: before the cargo, the hold is clean and ready and after the cargo, the hold should be as clean as possible. Maybe because I am a woman they try to have me there, but I know my voice can sound louder from time to time, and trust me; I do know how to use the sound system when necessary!

Moored in Szczecin, Poland. Grey and rainy.
It is important to make sure everything come out of the hold at the end…
A nice and clean hold, ready for the next cargo

We were finally underway to Riga in Ballast. It was a 2-day sail and we would load Sun Flower meal pellets. It looks very much like sugar beet pulp pellets, but it is not the same ;-). We would bring this cargo to Gent in Belgium, which meant a nice few days sailing. Even if we had to pass via the Kiel Channel once again; if we were lucky enough it would not bother us too much in our watch schedules and resting hours. Fingers crossed!

I think this was my first time with this type of cargo…. Let me check. Yes, indeed it was my first time! Now you must be thinking how I checked so fast into my memories for that right? Well, I have a secret. I do not have any memory for such things: cargos, places I have been to, distances, events… No brains at all so I write it down! I have a note on my phone and I write down on each of the trips the distances and cargos we have been transporting…. 😉 especially when onboard Ruyter we tend to go several times to the same harbors and also a few times in the same term! And a few times in the same harbors but not with the same cargo either! Yep. As you can see I can easily get myself confused after a while, so I write it down. To be as precise as I can.

Ruyter alongside in Riga

The loading in Riga went quite fast. It was a touch-and-go harbour which is nice because I could easily prepare my handover and take care of the last-minute things. There are always last-minute things to arrange when you come closer to a Dutch or Belgium harbour: deliveries, technical orders…. This time it was our gangway. We were going to receive a new gangway in Gent with a new platform! How cool right? We were all so happy about it because our platforms always got stuck with the gangway. But the reason we would get a new one was not so nice of course… it broke. Well to be more precise, it got literally destroyed by the crane driver in Szczecin…. He did not look where he was driving and ran over it like if it were butter. But it was not as if we had quickly moved our gangway just on his path by surprise right…. I mean, you get it. Shit happens and no one got hurt.

Started loading bulk cargo in Riga!
Very nice sunset in Riga

On our way back to Gent, we of course passed via the Kiel Channel and I enjoyed being once again in the locks. It felt like these locks were becoming our familiar second place to be with the ship. I do not mind they do not take long, and I usually try to make fun on the foredeck taking selfies or showing my life on Instagram or just chit-chatting with the AB on deck with me at that time. There are a lot of things to talk about: the way the germans through their heaving line, the way the gangway is set, if we need to take freshwater or not…. Always something to talk about indeed.

How can you not love sunsets at sea? Never bored of it…

I felt like this time the channel was quite busy with more vessels than usual. But I must admit that we were this time in a sort of convey so there were always vessels ahead of us and behind! And perhaps the last times I didn’t see the other vessels because of the darkness of the night… just kidding 🙂 even when it is dark we still see the other ships 🙂

Entering the locks in Holtenau
A busy Kiel channel!
Beautiful lights…

Does it happen to you too that when you know you are going home; I mean obviously I always knew it would be the case; but I mean the moment you have a fixed date, then suddenly everything becomes somehow « lighter » or more « cheerful ». You enjoy way more small things that you do onboard: mooring, cargo, watches…. Like a new you. The same happens when you just join the ship. You are fresh from leave so full of energy if you did not have a bad long travel day. At the end of your term, you are re-energized because you know you will get enough rest once home again so you are not trying to save on some rest or sleep.

Happy officer on the forecheck during mooring operations!

Anyways. Kiel Channel and arrival in Gent went quite smoothly. If you do not count the long waiting and drifting at Steenbank; then the locks in Terneuzen… The pilots always seem to postpone the boarding times and the locks always seem to be congested. Every single time. I can understand it is a busy area and if you have bad weather or infrastructure work in the locks, everything is slowed down. Do you have the same?

And then there it was suddenly the end of 9 weeks onboard. And my 3d term turns a page for new shore adventures… till I will join again in 8 weeks.

And say bye to the ship for the next 8 weeks!

I hope you still enjoy reading all my adventures and I am looking forward to my next term! But for now, rest is well deserved! Thank you all my dear friends and see you soon!

Xxx Sophie

3d Term, Week 8 🤩⚓️

8th – 14th of March 2021

There we were after a good weekend of rest in Eemshaven, we were ready for the steel coil party on Monday morning!

Probably because we were so close to the office, and perhaps for other reasons also, a lot of persons came to visit us. I say « us » but for sure it was more for the ships and to see what was going on, and how operations were going too. It is funny because you can recognize them easily. After all, their safety jackets and boots are very nice, shiny, and clean! Oh well, I cannot blame them, they do not need to wear them in the office behind the desk right? The funny thing is that of course they apply the safety rules by the letter and wear the helmet at all times… also inside. Personally, I find that sometimes wearing a helmet is more in my way than normal. I often forget that I have that extra space that I need to take into account and I find myself bumping my head way more often than usual. Haha. Also..; I am not so sure that a helmet would be of great aid if a 20-ton steel coil came to fall on my head…. But that is of course another debate.

There was a big crane that was hired for transferring the coils from one ship to another. We had also a few extra persons onboard.

Cargo transfer from one vessel to another
We are now almost equal freebords!

We had to make sure that a few of the bigger coils that were above 25t had to be on Portside because the crane in Szczecin did not have an arm long and strong enough to take those coils out from starboard. As long as we knew; it was not a problem. Because this was a particular case, two super-cargos from the office were onboard the ships to make sure there would be no damage and an inspector from Tata steel was also onboard making sure that the cargo would be again properly stowed from one ship to the other. They had all the plans and were mainly leading it all. I was making sure that the new captain was happy, that there was enough coffee and that the ballast was correctly taken out of the ship and stripped. I remember the new captain was slightly nervous to have the ship properly stripped and I found it strange that he asked me a few times to strip again « just in case ». Which I did of course – captain’s orders- but felt a bit hurt of course that he would not trust my deballasting and stripping of the tanks. But they were good empty so; I had nothing to be afraid of.

The deballasting goes perfectly well!👌🏻

It was fun to see that we arrived in ballast so we were more than 2 meters higher than our sistership and that slowly slowly we were at the same height and finally ended up being the one loaded and them in ballast 2 m higher than us! As I was regularly checking the drafts it was fun to see. Also, the nice thing is that we were at the very end of the harbour so the quayside was also accessible ahead of us with a small jetty. We could really check the bows of both vessels. I made a couple of nice pictures too of course! Also crazy selfies – but that is not a surprise for you, right? 😉

It took us over 2 days to transfer all the coils, and we were almost going to start day 3 of loading but we managed to do a little bit of overtime with the crane driver to have it completed at the end of the second day. I was glad about that because it enabled us to leave directly in the evening rather than losing again half a day. We have still 3-4 days till our destination port of call and well you know; Eemshaven is nice but there is not much to do without a car there.

The two sister ships alongside each other; Ruyter is loaded, Sprinter in Ballast.
A fully loaded cargo hold with steel coils.

While underway we heard that we would not be heading back to Hamina for the next voyage, but it would be Riga with some bulk cargo. We had to face the now the other part of the timber slings: storing them away hoping we would not have to take them out for a while…. Indeed it may seem stupid but a few trips ago we were hoping that we would have a few backs and forth trips with timber which meant that it was easy to just drop the lashing equipment in the hold while sailing in Ballast from Germany back to Finland. Up to now, it hadn’t really happened this way. But we had managed to leave the slings on deck in what we call the « swimming pool »: the area just in front of the accommodation. It is not ideal, but properly covered and fixed to the deck it was not such a problem. Just looked very messy. But you know, who cares if it is only for a couple of days.

This time we decided to store them back in the lashing store in the forecastle. Which meant tidying up and rolling all the slings properly, folding all the tarpaulins and bringing them back and counting all the timber slings, putting them by bundles of 25, and dropping them off via the hatch and the crane forward. It was almost as much work as making the deck cargo fast! Haha but you know what? This time, we had time to clean up the lashing store beforehand and I made sure that all the slings were together in one place and all the tarpaulins together in another place. That was a good job to be done together.

Putting away all the timber slings together with the AB’s

Half a day later we passed Kiel Channel during the day. It is my favourite when it is during the day because I find that there is always something to see. And I must admit that it was also good weather so it makes it even more enjoyable. After Kiel Channel, we still had 2 days sailing to Szczecin, our discharge port. Although they work fast there, we did not manage to complete it in one day and they do not work on weekends and nights there so we had a weekend in the harbour! Lucky enough for us we were allowed to go ashore!

I was looking forward to walking a bit but also to visiting this city. I spent a good part of my Sunday walking around the streets and going from one iconic place to another. I found that some parts of the city were really cute and well taken care of and the buildings were big and nice in other parts. All around the city, some panels indicate the direction and the time by foot to go to a « viewpoint » on the river to a landmark, or a museum, or a pretty fountain… It felt like they were trying to improve tourism there and make it attractive. I was really glad I had the time and that just the moments I was out, the sunshine was with me. It was my little architectural and tourist break. Very well appreciated as this was my first time there too.

When I was on tall ships, Szczecin was a big sponsor of the Tall Ships Races. One of the regattas even ended or started there; I do not recall really. But they were investing in a lot of polish youngsters to go at sea and experience some life onboard big sailing vessels, making friends and learning how to live together and be more understanding. They would also sponsor a lot of other youngsters all over Europe for this same sailing experience. Yes so I had heard about Szczecin quite a lot but it was my first time here and was nicely surprised.

A free Sunday afternoon in Szczecin

On Monday we would finish the discharging and prepare the hold for our next cargo in Riga. It was not a long sail there so it was going to be a good week. I was soon going home as I had just finished my 8th week onboard to probably after Riga!

We will see when that will be but For sure you will know soon enough in the next coming days!

And off I go for a nice walk in the city! Free days = Fun days!

For now, I hope you enjoy a great Sunday too!

Xxx Sophie