6th term, week 7 ⚓️✌🏻

14th till 20th of March 2022

Hello my friends!! back again!

So yes remember? we loaded wood pulp in Brake Germany a couple of days ago and we passed the Kiel channel on Sunday. We are heading to Kotka, Finland, with the wood pulp… Did I mention to you that I made myself a challenge for the whole month of March? The challenge is to go outside at least once a day, whatever the weather, for a short tour on deck and to get fresh air and silence on the fore deck for example. I realised I missed it being on deck and walking around. I missed the silence and the view. You know when you are on a sailing vessel, most of the time you are underway sailing with no engine but the wind blowing in the sails and the hair. I love that feeling. And onboard cargo ships, you tend to forget how it is to be outside with cold and rain, handling sails. Of course with time you forget the « miserable » part of being wet and cold outside for hours on your watch right? but you get nostalgic for the fresh air and the wind… and the beautiful view from the top of the masts!

So there was my Challenge for the whole month of March, and to make myself accountable, I post a daily picture on Instagram. A black and white picture of myself – called a selfie right?- or of the view or something happening on deck. Pictures are not so bad in black and white! it is funny but it does give a different perspective; you see details differently!

Arriving closer to Kotka on Monday, we were also arriving back into Ice. I took time to go on the foredeck to enjoy the cracking sound of the ice on the hull. It was not as thick as it was a few weeks ago, but it was still a nice experience and very enjoyable.

Oh! but before I forget! do you know what was amazing during that night sail before we arrived in the harbour? I saw for the first time in my life the austral light!!! beautiful green lights in the air and that was amazing! In the beginning, I was wondering what it was, and why there was a sort of stain in the air. But then I stepped outside and realized that it was in several places in the sky; to be more precise, it was on a huge part of my Portside! Green stripes and a green « dusty » sky… it was marvellous! I just wanted to wake up everyone on board even though it was in the middle of the night, and I wanted to call all the other vessels on VHF to see if they had seen it too! On my previous vessels, I would have enjoyed this with more crew of course, and the trainees. we would have been all staring at the sky and enjoying each minute till it lasted…. but now I felt really alone. Alone on the bridge with the green sky and stars. It was still amazing.

As we are sailing to Kotka, I notices some green lights in my night watch!
As we are sailing to Kotka, I notices some green lights in my night watch!

Fun fact, the next morning, when I told the crew and showed pictures they were all envious, but none of them would have wanted me to wake them up….

I thought it was amazing to see them so low in the Baltic. there were probably perfect conditions for the moon, a clear atmosphere and reflection to see them like that. Anyways. I was really happy and glad. I wish I would take shots of amazing ones now quite up North!

In Kotka, we discharged the wood pulp. This went quite fast as there was perfect weather for it: a huge blue sky and not one single cloud. I opened all the hatches end we completed at the end of the day. The next morning we sailed to Hamina where we were going to load paper reels again to Terneuzen.

Sailing into Kotka, in the ice
Sailing into Kotka, in the ice
Discharging wood pulp in Kotka. The skies are always amazing in Finland
Discharging wood pulp in Kotka. The skies are always amazing in Finland

Hamina is just a couple of miles further from Kotka so there was no hurry. We had to wait for another vessel ahead of us to complete before they would start with us. So guess what the captain and I did upon arrival in hamina? of course! we went for a swim! This time we stayed 5 minutes and it was really interesting because it felt way easier than the last time! It seems true that the more you practice ice water swimming, the easier it is! I realize for my side that when I remain still, I find it also easier than when I am trying to swim around. My next challenge if I have the chance to swim again this year, will be to swim slowly to a giver ice block in the water so that I also get a cool picture close to the ice and not only close to the ladder! 😉 safety first, of course, this has to remain enjoyable and do not worry I will not force myself only to get a cool picture. I also know that someone is watching me from the quayside, and that captain H. is close by in the water together with me too and we are supporting each other…. although I have the feeling he supports me more in this than I…. he says he is a Viking and indeed, he seems to not even feel the cold. or not as much as I do. ok ok. Actually, he does but he probably just shows it less ;).

The ice  is every where around the vessel!
The ice is every where around the vessel!

What we did this time too, is that when coming out of the water we remained outside in our swimsuits in the sun. just moving around and doing jumping jacks just there to heat up from the inside. It was not cold outside. Or I mean, we did not feel cold as we were just out of the freezing water. But last time we went directly inside the heated accommodation, for a cold shower inside to wash off. This time we wanted to experience heating up from inside to the outside of our flesh instead of heat coming from outside towards our chore. this second experience was way better because we were almost normal after our shower; whereas last time we still had to move and relax to keep ourselves from shivering…..

Anyways nice experience and it gives energy and smiles to our faces! It is so great to feel alive!

There was a change of plan. The ship ahead of us finished loading earlier and we could start loading in the evening already. the next morning I woke up very early to open up the rest of the hatches. This time I had a better plan than the last time we loaded paper reels. I wanted the crane driver to start from the aft for the last layer to avoid putting so many airbags around. Paper is a very fragile cargo and it needs to be protected everywhere of course. But only the last layer needs to be lashed because the layers beneath are lashed by the weight of the top layers. I hope you understand what I am trying to explain.

Ready to load paper reels in Hamina
Ready to load paper reels in Hamina

There we were off in the middle of the afternoon, outbound for Terneuzen via the Kiel channel again!

The weather was great. I must admit I enjoy very much loading paper reels. I hope we will have more of those in the future!

Taking in the pilot ladder after the Pilot disembarkation
Taking in the pilot ladder after the Pilot disembarkation

The sailing out was very smooth till the locks. I enjoyed the beautiful sunset which was nice because it started to feel like summer was around the corner. You know: great skies, big suns, still fresh air but you could feel the heat wanted to come through.

Sunset in the icy Finnish sea
Sunset in the icy Finnish sea
Chief officer Sophie Smiling on the foredeck while sailing on the Baltic Sea
Chief officer Sophie Smiling on the foredeck while sailing on the Baltic Sea

We were going through the Kiel Channel in the middle of the night again and you know what happened? I had the chance to manoeuvre again and enter the locks in Brunsbüttel the next morning!

I was very proud. Of course, I also manoeuvred out and to the river. I really enjoyed it. It is a great feeling. Probably because I know the captain is never too far around. I guess I would be a bit more nervous if he suddenly left the bridge to go on deck. But I know that that will be happening one day too. Each day is a step further. Fun fact: Captain h. is sending my parents movies of me while manoeuvring! it is funny they can almost follow me live while mooring!

Chief officer Sophie taking a selfie from the bridge after a manoeuvre , overlooking the crew chatting on the hatches in the locks
Chief officer Sophie taking a selfie from the bridge after a manoeuvre , overlooking the crew chatting on the hatches in the locks

It was again a very smooth sail to the Netherlands. captain H. was going to sign off in the next harbour and we would get another captain onboard. A captain sailed a few weeks with us but I had not had the chance to sail with him yet as we relieved the captain and chief officer the same day. I was a bit nervous as usual. I always get a bit nervous when a new crew joins the ship because I always hope they will be nice people and fun to work with, not too stressed and with whom I will enjoy working and learning too.

Sailing on the North Sea with beautiful sunsets
Sailing on the North Sea with beautiful sunsets

Arriving closer to Europe we could finally see a pink haze on the horizon: they were talking about it on the news the Saharan sand was transported with air masses to Europe and it was all over in the atmosphere: thin pink dust. It was beautiful.

Saharian dust on the Horizon while approaching the Dutch and Belgian coast
Saharian dust on the Horizon while approaching the Dutch and Belgian coast

We came into the harbour on Sunday evening and the discharge would start only the next morning; not so early. that was good for the last evening together with captain H. and the dog.

Let’s see what next week brings us with a new crew member onboard!

6th term, week 4 ⚓️✌🏻

21st till 27th of February 2022

4 weeks onboard!! Already! It goes so fast! I have the feeling I came back on board not so long ago…. And there it is already halfway through my term!

As a reminder, we are sailing to Sweden with wood pulp in our hold. Not a full cargo; but very easy cargo. It was funny during the loading I thought to myself that the cargo seems in really bad shape. But you know the thing is that it has already been handled quite a few times as this wood pulp comes from South America somewhere. Can you imagine that we bring wood pulp back and forth between some countries? It is quite strange when you think of it to buy something from the other side of Europe or of the world will there is plenty next door!

Motor vessel Ruyter sailing on the North Sea in strong winds
Motor vessel Ruyter sailing on the North Sea in strong winds

Anyways. We are out of the Kiel Channel now. And as it happens most of the time- or at least it seems to me…- I had the longest watch in the channel…. Ok not fair for the others. Of course, Captain H. always stays up for entering the locks and mooring operations. So he is also early and late but usually managed to have 7-8 hours of sleep in between. This time, I woke up for my watch and we were still outside Brunsbüttel waiting for the pilot and a free space in the locks. There was so much wind that everything was congested.

A couple of hours later the pilot even told me that they had stopped entries in the locks because of too high waters…. We were facing some gusts over 40 knots on the channel. We had to wait q few times on the channel for other categories of vessels crossing us. Once even for 1hour! Usually, it is 20-30 minutes…. It was not the easiest on the channel but luckily the wind was pushing us on the dolphins in the waiting areas.

Once out of the Kiel Channel, there was still some wind but no more waves so it was actually quite a nice sailing up to Sweden!

Finally the weather became better and the sun was out. View of the ship from the foredeck towards the accommodation
Finally the weather became better and the sun was out. View of the ship from the foredeck towards the accommodation

The further northeast we were sailing, the colder the water was and I could really feel the difference in my morning shower! As you know I only take a cold shower and well it was almost freezing cold just before arriving in Norrsundet! I even challenged myself to stay for 3 minutes underneath and there was no problem at all. I loved it it was very … refreshing! From Kiel to Norrsundet it was still 3 days sailing so it gets more and more North. And there would still be some ice closer to the coast further on the Swedish coast.

I had never been to Norrsundet. It was a very small harbour on the east coast of Sweden (I checked it out even! 1003 inhabitants!), just at the entrance of the Bothnia Bay North of Gävle. There was not so much Ice before arriving, but in the entrance channel and the harbour, a little. Just enough that the ship had to break the ice to access the quay. The small ice breaker tugs should have passed to break the channel and crush the ice before our arrival, but they hadn’t even though it was requested!

Sunset colours at sea
Sunset colours at sea

The linesman was also the foreman of the harbour and she was very upset; captain H. Too! It took one hour to finally berth.

The next morning we were ready to discharge the wood pulp. I woke up quite early to be ready to check the weather and open all hatches up. But once on the bridge, although it was dry and clear when I checked the weather forecast, it showed rain just around the time the discharge should begin. So I kept everything closed except mine hatch – just to say I was there and ready- and made myself a cup of coffee. 

It was very quiet all around the ship and in the harbour. It was a very small harbour with only two quays. One where we were and another one, longer where you could see that various cargoes could be discharged.

Discharging the wood pulp in icy Sweden
Discharging the wood pulp in icy Sweden

Finally, shortly before 7 am, the stevedores came to the ship. The crane was not even there yet. I went to say hello and explained why the hatches were still closed. And we waited a bit then suddenly it was pouring rain for 20 minutes. Like it came out of nowhere. And there I looked at the stevedores and we nodded: this was what we were expecting and it came. After that, I opened all hatches and we could finally discharge the entire rest of the day. Woodpulp is a weather-sensitive cargo and it should not get wet at all. As we did not have a full cargo; the discharge rate was 200t per hour so we could expect to finish within the day which was great news. Our next harbour was Hamina in Finland and it was a little less than 2 days of sailing. The next cargo was timber so the hold only needed to be swept well but not washed. So that could easily be done underway.

The arrival in Hamina was easy in the morning. It was nice to sail in ice for a couple of hours again. It is like a real change of scenery. And even if it was not as cold as last year at the same time when it was -14 degrees Celsius outside and now only 0 degrees…. Well, the ice was still there and everywhere in the harbour and the icebreaker and tugs still needed to break the water for us.

  • Back alongside in Hamina Port, The vessel is moored and surrounded by ice.
  • The ice is becoming very compact around the ship even on the stern

We arrived on Saturday morning which gave us a lot of time to take all the timber lashings out of the lashing store. Trust me it is a lot of slings that we carry down there! They are all organised in bundles of 25 so that it is easier to handle around when on deck. But we have more than 2500! If not 3000…! Then it is also all the chains, slings for the deck lashing and tarpaulins to take out.

Suddenly the lashing store seemed very empty! It was good because I could do some sorting there and some throwing away.

A ship is a little like a house. You tend to keep everything « just in case »… and even if it is old, broken or… well you know. This was going to be a perfect opportunity for me to check what we had onboard and sort a bit…. And mostly throw what was not needed anymore.

The ship is ready for loading early morning the next day
The ship is ready for loading early morning the next day

We were also welcoming a second officer onboard that weekend. Normally we do not have a second officer and we had to free our spare cabin that was used for various spares onboard and make it ready for him. I would have to do another full familiarisation for him on deck as I did for the engineer that joined us a few weeks ago. That is how it goes I guess….

Luckily they would only start loading on the following Tuesday so we had a fun Sunday in the harbour to…; sleep in, and swim in the Ice cold water! Yeahhhhh!!! Of course, you would not think for one second that captain H. And I would let this opportunity pass by right? This time my challenge was to stay for more than 3 minutes at least in the freezing ice water. And I was aiming for 5 minutes. And you know what? It felt way easier than last time. My core was warmer. And I felt more relaxed. Except for my extremities ( toes and fingers) while I was going back to the vessel…. It was really exciting!

Ice swimming in Hamina with Captain H.
Ice swimming in Hamina with Captain H.

In the afternoon we went for a walk on the ice to the city of Hamina. It is a nice 1,5-hour walk on the ice directly to the city. We went for a beer (I took a cider) and we had lots of fun.

This sounds like a good day to go for a walk: chief officer Sophie with in back ground motor vessel Ruyter
This sounds like a good day to go for a walk: chief officer Sophie with in back ground motor vessel Ruyter

I enjoy Sundays in the harbour like that whether is no cargo operation. It is really one of the nice things to visit around and walk longer than the length of the ship. Besides, I do enjoy the ice and Finland. It makes it special.

Selfie on the ice with vessels frozen in ice alongside
Selfie on the ice with vessels frozen in ice alongside

And I do not know when we will be there next so…. One day at a time and I try to enjoy it as much as I can.

I hope your Sunday was also nice.

See you next week with the sorting of the lashing store and the loading of timber!

Xxx

Sopietje